Spain's hidden gem

Date published: 27 September 2014


In the small region of Mercia, east of Spain on the Mediterranean coast lies Jumilla.

Founded by the Moors in 825 AD it was named 'Europe's orchard' with its long standing tradition of exports of fruit and vegetables.

Fate lent a hand in the mid 19th century when the Phyloxerra aphid decimated the French vineyards giving Jumilla an unexpected boost in its wine production as the Europeans looked for Phyloxerra free wine.

Jumilla's speciality is Monastrell (known as Mouvedre is France). With over 85% of production dedicated to its principal grape.

At first glance it wouldn't seem the best place to grow grapes. Summer temperatures can regularly reach 40C with little rainfall. However, the soil is lime based and excels at holding moisture.

More importantly it's the altitude that is the key to its success being 400-800 metres above sea level on the Meseta Plateau, Spain's interior region. Whilst it still has scorching temperatures during the day the elevation reduces the effect and especially in the evening where it is considerably cooler slowing the vine's ripeness, concentrating the sugars in the grapes.

The result is a full bodied red with glorious amounts of dark fruit, coffee and oak spices typically being barrel aged. Coupled with a hefty 14-15% alcohol level.

In recent years there has been a lot of attention with some of Spain's foremost wineries setting up in the region. One prominent producer to look out for is Juan Gil.

Available in numerous restaurants locally and in some local wine shops, these wines are usually prefixed by a number Juangil 4 or 12 referring to the number of months it has been aged in oak.

Having tried the range the entry level wine JuanGil 4 is my recommendation especially with its friendly price of £7.95.

If you like Malbec, Shiraz or Grenache this is a serious wine to try.

Food & Wine by Paul Sheerin
Pshearse@gmail.com

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